Nauplia

22.11.2011

We arrived in the Greek port of Nauplia early in the morning as the mists were still boiling on the hills where the ancient myths were written. The sea was invisible and just the dark peaks of land jutted out in the distance. As the sun burned off the mist the sea turned azure and the hillsides burst into colour. I love mornings like that; when the entire world changes in a few minutes.

The Greek town of Nauplia is a haven of whitewashed houses nestled into the hillsides of the Argolic Gulf. I spent a wonderful few hours just wandering around markets and shops learning Italian opera lyrics whilst having several coffees in the venetian town square. I caught up with home while I was soaking up some winter sun surrounded by the bright shops and spotted a fair few old shopkeepers wrestling up their christmas trees, placing them prettily obstructing doorways and windows. I sat there very happily continuing my tradition of trying the wine from each place I visit with my lunch… that’s a viable way to experience a culture… honest!

I find Nauplia to be a town of two halves. Both equally fascinating yet wildly different from each other. If you turn left from the port and travel into the urban and functional part of the town you reach quite soon the cracked pavements of the high-street, the raucous shouts from behind the school gates and a huge steam train grounded yet artistically decorated it seems by some ‘not-so-wholesome’ youths using spray pain. Venturing beyond that brings you to the last point before you are forced to begin your ascent to the heights of Palamidi castle – the food market. Traders in everyday wares and vegetables from tables made of upturned colourful cartons shout to one another selling their barrels of honey and sweet smelling greens over the mixed music of countless ghetto-blasters and the faint hum of cigarette smoke. A beautiful assault on the senses!

Turning right from the port will take you to the marble-like streets of the old town. Bustling with tourist and local bespoke shops. I was looking to create a food hamper to take home for my family in the new year. I wanted to fill it with local produce from each place I visited. I happened upon a small shop just off the square run by a young man named John. (Very Greek! Ha). He spent a good 30 minutes describing in broken English how each of the delicacies were made: the honeyed nuts the chocolate spreads and the liquors. I left quite a bit poorer but with foods for my hamper and a new friend added on facebook!

The town square and restaurant where I had my coffee, tsatziki and of course… wine.

Locally made toys crowding doorways.

The town of Nauplia is very beautiful but it’s also, as Malta is, very ramshackle. Ramshakle in a charming way though, meaning I spent a good hour just roaming around little streets taking photos of lovely houses, boats and flowers growing out of people front doors!

Seafront fish restaurant

Backstreets and steps leading to private houses

A local fishing boat moored in the bay

I’ve started to spend my shore days alone, for no other reason than life on the ship can get slightly monotonous if you don’t have time alone to recharge. I’ve been just exploring and meeting random people and the odd passenger in coffee shops which has meant I have some variation in my life. I’m truly enjoying my little solo excursions at the moment. (Except for when strangers are offered an inordinate amount of camels in return for my sale!)