My first foray into India was brief and stressful. A 6 am immigration… followed by a frantic transfer to Mumbai international airport staring through the bus window at places I wished to explore but had no time. Numerous baggage scans and personal searches, (I stopped counting at 11!), followed by an obligatory curry for breakfast and a 9 hour flight back to London didn’t make for a true first impression of this huge diverse country.

My second experience in India was a world apart. I have fallen in love with this crazy beautiful and vibrant place. Arriving in Chennai (formally Madras) the capital of the Tamil Nadu state, in April, the heat was palpable. Huge birds circled the ship as we drew closer into land. (one such pterodactyl stole my sandwich! A full size sandwich!!) The water was filled with small boats dashing in and out of our way. I could see the 19^th century vine covered buildings jostling with each other as far as the eye could see.

The obligatory immigration completed I was free to travel into the local area. A short ride to the port gates were a string of tuk tuks. With 2 of my fellow acts, crammed into the back of the canary yellow rickshaw we set off to explore the city before dusk fell.

What can I say about the journey!!??? Families of 4 on one motorbike squealed past us, we turned right… (now that is terrifying!) and negotiated our day with the driver. The itinerary agreed on, our new friend dropped us at the main fabric marketplace, agreeing to pick us up later. Chennai is very different to Mumbai as there are so few people in western dress. The women were all in a sari or a salwar and my Forever 21 maxi dress stood out like a sore thumb! A blonde woman in India is hard to ignore and the stares followed me down the street. I wanted a Sari.

Chennai Silks called out to me! It was like going back to the 1970’s! If you ever watched ‘Are you being served?’ then you would recognise the Chennai silks outlet! Hardwood tables lined the cavernous shop while men brought water and snacks to those who browsed. The first floor was filled with gold filigree jewellery and precious stones. Saris for every occasion filled the fourth floor… all eyes were on me. I obviously looked lost. By this time I was a woman alone in a country where I spoke no local language and had no idea how the shop worked. I took a deep breath:

“I’d like a sari” I managed to a young man who stared quizzically at me.

“fancy sari?” he said

I gave him a number of roupees I was willing to spend… immediately I was whisked away into a corner with 5 men and 2 women. Lost in a rainbow of silks I started to shop. 1 hour later… several carbon paper copies of credit card receipts and multiple papers stating ownership (stamped by 3 desks before I could carry the good outside!) later… I had a beautiful new sari!

The best was yet to come. The afternoon continued with a journey to the universal temple. The layers of dirt that filled the residential streets on the way to the temple stopped abruptly at the gates. Inner city highway suddenly became silent terracotta framed with palm trees and white marble. People drifted up the steps towards the huge doors… I followed. Taking off my shoes I washed my feet and climbed the stairs. The first thing that hit was the silence. Utter peace in a high ceilinged space. I sat cross legged on the womens side, unsure of what I should be doing. Then I realised, I was doing exactly what I should be doing. Just being there. Enjoying it.

The universal temple is actually called Sri Ramakrishna math. Ramakrishna Math is a monastic organisation for men brought into existence by Ramakrishna (1836–1886), a 19th-century saint of Bengal. The motto of the Ramakrishna math and Ramakrishna  Mission is: “For one’s own salvation, and for the welfare of the world”. Sri Ramakrishna Math, Chennai is the first branch center of the Ramakrishna Order in Southern India. It was started in the year 1897 by Swami Ramakrishnananda, one of the direct disciples of Ramakrishna. (for more see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sri_Ramakrishna_Math,_Chennai )

As the sun began to set we left the temple and ventured through to the monastery part of the complex. As I rounded to corner to the meditation garden I passed two young women who smiled and waved over to me. Taking the opportunity I went over to them.

“Are you American?” one of the girls asked.

“No, English” I said

She perked up excitedly! “Oh where from!!!?? I trained as a doctor in Manchester. I lived in west Didsbury when I was a student!”

What a small world! Here I was half way around the world in a tranquil temple garden with a girl who lived 10 miles from where I grew up! We chatted, took pictures and kept each other company on the walk to the gates. She had just returned to Chennai, after studying, to start her career caring for the people of her home city. She filled me in on the history of the temple of the kinds of Buddhism that are available in the local area and of many many more things I can’t begin to remember!

As the sun set, we meandered through the trees, dipping in bookstores, watching people come and go, sweep and pray. Our trusty Tuk Tuk returned on time and we bumped our way back to the port, through crazy traffic and the odd bewildered looking cow.

Dusty and hungry, I collapsed on my bed for a well earned nap… the night wasn’t over… but more on that another time!