Welcomed by dancing and singing locals on the banks of the pacific, this was my first Samoan arrival of 2015… needless to say it wasn’t my last!

As always, determined to get the most out of the next 9 hours, I had decided to venture to the south of the island where I had heard lay the best beach in Samoa. Again, traveling alone is all well and good, but sometimes, company makes the whole day easier and generally more fun! So accompanied by another act who was up for an adventure I headed to the taxi rank.

The best way to explore Samoa is to get a rough plan in your head before you enter a taxi. If you are unsure, the drivers will take you on their own version of an island tour. That is all well and good, but you will spend quite a bit on taxi fare and will have less time in each place than if you chose just one or two and really explored them for the day.

Our decision was to head to Taufua beach and enjoy the peace and quiet for the whole day. Our taxi driver, Eric, was very happy to take us for the whole day and after we made it clear we ONLY wanted to go to Taufua we set off across the mountainous rainforest covered interior of the island.

Samoa is stunning. It truly is the hidden jewel of the South pacific. Largley unspoiled by huge multinational chain hotels, its villages are both quaint and vibrant. The road across the island steepened sharply, our taxi wheezed up the incline… I looked at my friend, eyebrows raised… getting across this island would seem like a miracle! However, Eric was undaunted and, with a smile on his face, kept his foot on the gas. As we finally reached the summit, the reason for this route became clear… a perpetual rainbow greeted our eyes!

Suspended over a valley, which looked more like the set of Jurassic Park than anywhere I have ever been, hung a perfect spectral arc. Through the mists of the hidden waterfalls that fed into rainforest canopy the rainbow shone almost tangible in the sky. According to Eric, it rarely fades and can be seen at all times of day from this particular spot. In the distance we could see all the way to the pacific shore we had left that morning. It was truly beautiful.

Having taken our fill of pictures, we set off once again for Taufua. 2 hours after setting off, we arrived to a strip of white sand dotted with bright painted Fales. Bruce, a sweetheart of a man, and the owner of the facilities greeted us kindly. Eric was seated at the bar, our food and drink tab open to him as he waited for us throughout the day. In no time a Fale was prepared for us and we were settled.

Taufua Beach is stunning, protected by a barrier of coral which stops any large waves getting to the shore. The result is a crystal clear lagoon style beach , perfect for lazing in the gentle surf with tiny fish swimming all around you. As I walked to the sea, my friend pointed out that my footprints were the only footprints to be seen. The pristine sand was unbroken all the way to the rocky breakwater. Tiptoeing on virgin sand we explored the coastline, coming across trees that begged to be climbed and corals that begged to be swam to. We wiled away the hours with a little indulgent champagne (to celebrate the end of a working week!) as Bruce presented us with ice cream cocktails and nibbles.

 

As the sun started to descend we motioned to Eric that it was time to head back to Apia… a couple of Rum and Cokes hadn’t dampened his enthusiasm for a drive home! Exchanging worried looks we got back into the car… thank goodness his taxi was only able to reach about 30mph! 2 hours later we were back where we started, sandy footed and sunkissed.

A cosmopolitan in the crows nest bar was called for as we sailed into the sunset for Fiji.

A magical day had been had once again!

The Mai Tai

If you find yourself in Honolulu for a shockingly short amount of time… don’t just wait for your flight home or your connection, get yourself to Waikiki! As I have said before on this blog, despite its crowded beaches and constant buzz, it is an iconic piece of Americana which MUST be experienced. Whatever your budget, there is an activity for you! Whether you want to just lay on the beach and soak up the Hawaiian sun (that’s free!), take an hour for a private surf lesson ( http://www.faithsurfschool.com can give you one for $125) or go and search out the local Humpback Whales and Turtles (prices range from $20 to $70 depending on who you ask), there’s something waiting for you on this 2 mile stretch of sand.

At this time of year I seem to regularly find myself doing a quick stop over in Honolulu while waiting to join a ship, and as it is a 24 hour journey from my home to this pacific island… I insist on making the most of it!

As the sun rose on my jet lag on a February morning this year, I found myself wandering west down Waikiki looking for something to do. I had woken stupidly early as I was still on UK time and was eager to bust the jet lag with a swim. As the sun got hotter I came across the Mai Tai! The Mai Tai is a small catamaran which docks on the west end of Waikiki, for $50 you can leave at 10:30am to swim with the turtles out in Turtle Canyon then sail east towards Diamond Head till 1:30pm… AND your lunch and drinks are included!

We set off with the ocean waves bumping us around as we made our way straight out to sea about a half mile. Dropping anchor we we immediately surrounded by turtles of all sizes! Jumping into the waves I was floating with countless of these serene animals. An hour with these guys will set you up for any onward journey… I promise!

The next time I returned to Waikiki I had even less time. My flight was scheduled for that evening and I only had a few hours free! This time I caught a catamaran from outside the Pacific Beach Hotel which was heading out to find some humpbacks that had been sighted earlier in the day. For $20 (that’s £13!!) you can spend an hour out on the ocean getting close to the huge humpbacks that roam around the island waters. The friendly guys sailing the boat and Sarah, the lady on land, do all they can to make you feel comfortable, including looking after your bulkier items (or items you want to stay dry) while you whale watch.

Filled with excitement and cooled by the huge waves that kept dashing us, we fixed our eyes on the horizon. The first blow of air signaled a pod! As we looked on, 4 huge humpbacks broke the surface, rising and diving in the bay. For about 20 minutes we glided by, just watching them play and show off for the bigger whale watching boats that floated just a bit further out. As they disappeared we turned and headed, satisfied, back to land. Just an hour had passed! I still had 3 hours left before I had to head to the airport! Whatever could I do next?

Surfing. Now I have to tell you, if you’ve been reading this blog for a while you know that I am happy to try things and have a near 100% rate of having an amazing time… however… when the red flags are out on Waikiki… don’t decide you can teach yourself to surf!

I made the mistake of taking myself out on a rented body board to catch some waves. The current was very strong but I believed that I could handle it.. how hard could it be? It turns out… quite hard!. I am a strong swimmer and was also wearing fins, BUT the current ended up tossing me around quite violently. Hauling myself back to the beach after wrestling with a very pointy rock I was relatively unscathed, other than a few scrapes and bruises. I must impress on you that if you want to surf on Waikiki take the proper precautions and always have a lesson first! It can be amazing if done correctly… but without training you put yourself at risk!

The hours had passed! My check in time was approaching. Tired, happy and with sand covered feet, I made my way to the airport. Just a day in Honolulu had once again given me so many memories! I cant wait to return!

Traveling in the last few days of Cyclone Pams tour of the south pacific, tensions were high as I boarded the plane for Fiji in LAX. The passengers were made up of mainly rescue workers heading to Vanuatu to help with the humanitarian effort following the destruction of the entire island. These wonderful people were giving their time and risking their safety to help those stuck in the aftermath of the cyclone… it really was a pleasure to travel with them.

I have to say the journey was as painless as possible… From LA I had to travel to Nadi, Fiji in order to catch a flight to Apia, Samoa. This was supposedly my destination until I heard that the itinerary had changed, and wonderfully Pago Pago would be the the last stop. Travelling from the tiny airport in Apia we bumped along the runway and headed out across the reef strewn ocean to American Samoa. We arrived in Pago Pago via the interisland hopper (previously mentioned on this blog in August 2014 https://cocktailswithpiranhas.wordpress.com/2014/08/26/samoa-2-days-1-broken-plane-6-lost-suitcases-1-angry-crab-and-a-partridge-in-a-palm-tree/ ).

Our flight to Pago Pago

Hidden down the coast in Pago Pago in American Samoa, is a slice of paradise. Tisa’s Barefoot beach, run by a man only known as ‘Candyman’, is a Robinson Crusoe hideaway perfect for an adventurous traveller who just wants to be surrounded by nature and the ocean whilst sipping Candymans own personal pina colada recipe out of a coconut.

                                    Candyman serving up Mahi Mahi                    Me and Candyman

‘Tisa’s’ had been recommended to me by countless other travellers, and so I was desperate to get myself there. Arriving at the Tradewinds Hotel at lunchtime, (http://www.tradewinds.as/), I dropped my bags and headed straight for a taxi, bringing with me as many people as I could convince to come for a day exploring the reef.

The first thing that stuck me was how empty it was. Candyman was washing the decks as we arrived, obviously not expecting people, however he immediately welcomed us and got us food and drinks! The rooms overlooking the beach were rustic and cosy, giving us shelter from the hot intermittent rain.

As the clouds parted, I couldn’t wait any longer! Grabbing my snorkel I headed out to the ‘drop off’. About 30 metres out to sea the turquoise water changed to a deep velvet blue signifying the change in depth. I have to say, I was NOT expecting the beauty and diversity I found beneath the waves at Barefoot beach. Once you approach the drop off, the coral spirals in and out of the crevices. It’s like looking down on a skyscraper with different balconies on every level. The reef inhabitants glided in their hundreds past caves and under rocks. Bright butterfly fish darted by, lined surgeonfish filled my view, spotted parrot fish darted in and out of caves just beyond my reach. In the shallows Shrimpgoby sat in sandy homesteads watching the world drift by.

                                    Lined Surgeonfish                                               Butterfly Fish

Hours that seemed like minutes passed as I drifted with the tide further out to sea until I reached the big blue empty space of the pacific… only the hunger in my belly dragged me back to land!

Diving through the crevices…

                                   The beach                                                         Puffer Fish

After a fantastic lunch of grilled banana and Mahi Mahi, (accompanied by a hungry cat and a doleful eyed dog!) the rain started again in earnest. The only solution? …To get back into the warm ocean and let the storm pass over us as we swam! As the afternoon became evening the sky was filled with huge fruit bats (the size of dogs!) sweeping through the air into the trees. As their shadows passed overhead heading into the rainforest, it struck me that this was indeed one of the closest places to natures paradise I have been .

Huge Fruit Bats

Banded Sea Snake

I returned the following day to crowds of people all enjoying the reef and Candymans incredible service. The feel was utterly different as the bar buzzed with noise and the beach was covered in towels, yet it was just as wonderful. At low tide I headed back to the drop off… this time to be greeted by a Banded Sea Snake, although their venom is highly dangerous, these snakes are very docile and are unlikely to attack unless stepped on, and so, giving them a wide birth, I headed out to sea. The day passed in a similar fashion to the first: food, coconut water and diving. Heaven!

 

In all Tisa’s is a place you MUST visit if traveling through American Samoa. The accommodation is beautiful (although I didn’t actually stay there), the company is friendly and the place itself… well… take off your shoes… Barefoot Beach wins hands down!