Traveling in the last few days of Cyclone Pams tour of the south pacific, tensions were high as I boarded the plane for Fiji in LAX. The passengers were made up of mainly rescue workers heading to Vanuatu to help with the humanitarian effort following the destruction of the entire island. These wonderful people were giving their time and risking their safety to help those stuck in the aftermath of the cyclone… it really was a pleasure to travel with them.

I have to say the journey was as painless as possible… From LA I had to travel to Nadi, Fiji in order to catch a flight to Apia, Samoa. This was supposedly my destination until I heard that the itinerary had changed, and wonderfully Pago Pago would be the the last stop. Travelling from the tiny airport in Apia we bumped along the runway and headed out across the reef strewn ocean to American Samoa. We arrived in Pago Pago via the interisland hopper (previously mentioned on this blog in August 2014 https://cocktailswithpiranhas.wordpress.com/2014/08/26/samoa-2-days-1-broken-plane-6-lost-suitcases-1-angry-crab-and-a-partridge-in-a-palm-tree/ ).

Our flight to Pago Pago

Hidden down the coast in Pago Pago in American Samoa, is a slice of paradise. Tisa’s Barefoot beach, run by a man only known as ‘Candyman’, is a Robinson Crusoe hideaway perfect for an adventurous traveller who just wants to be surrounded by nature and the ocean whilst sipping Candymans own personal pina colada recipe out of a coconut.

                                    Candyman serving up Mahi Mahi                    Me and Candyman

‘Tisa’s’ had been recommended to me by countless other travellers, and so I was desperate to get myself there. Arriving at the Tradewinds Hotel at lunchtime, (http://www.tradewinds.as/), I dropped my bags and headed straight for a taxi, bringing with me as many people as I could convince to come for a day exploring the reef.

The first thing that stuck me was how empty it was. Candyman was washing the decks as we arrived, obviously not expecting people, however he immediately welcomed us and got us food and drinks! The rooms overlooking the beach were rustic and cosy, giving us shelter from the hot intermittent rain.

As the clouds parted, I couldn’t wait any longer! Grabbing my snorkel I headed out to the ‘drop off’. About 30 metres out to sea the turquoise water changed to a deep velvet blue signifying the change in depth. I have to say, I was NOT expecting the beauty and diversity I found beneath the waves at Barefoot beach. Once you approach the drop off, the coral spirals in and out of the crevices. It’s like looking down on a skyscraper with different balconies on every level. The reef inhabitants glided in their hundreds past caves and under rocks. Bright butterfly fish darted by, lined surgeonfish filled my view, spotted parrot fish darted in and out of caves just beyond my reach. In the shallows Shrimpgoby sat in sandy homesteads watching the world drift by.

                                    Lined Surgeonfish                                               Butterfly Fish

Hours that seemed like minutes passed as I drifted with the tide further out to sea until I reached the big blue empty space of the pacific… only the hunger in my belly dragged me back to land!

Diving through the crevices…

                                   The beach                                                         Puffer Fish

After a fantastic lunch of grilled banana and Mahi Mahi, (accompanied by a hungry cat and a doleful eyed dog!) the rain started again in earnest. The only solution? …To get back into the warm ocean and let the storm pass over us as we swam! As the afternoon became evening the sky was filled with huge fruit bats (the size of dogs!) sweeping through the air into the trees. As their shadows passed overhead heading into the rainforest, it struck me that this was indeed one of the closest places to natures paradise I have been .

Huge Fruit Bats

Banded Sea Snake

I returned the following day to crowds of people all enjoying the reef and Candymans incredible service. The feel was utterly different as the bar buzzed with noise and the beach was covered in towels, yet it was just as wonderful. At low tide I headed back to the drop off… this time to be greeted by a Banded Sea Snake, although their venom is highly dangerous, these snakes are very docile and are unlikely to attack unless stepped on, and so, giving them a wide birth, I headed out to sea. The day passed in a similar fashion to the first: food, coconut water and diving. Heaven!

 

In all Tisa’s is a place you MUST visit if traveling through American Samoa. The accommodation is beautiful (although I didn’t actually stay there), the company is friendly and the place itself… well… take off your shoes… Barefoot Beach wins hands down!