20 years after war, Croatia is has confidently reasserted itself as a tourist destination once again. I was lucky to spend 3 days in Croatia in the run up to Christmas. It was absolutely beautiful. The first port of call was Dubrovnik, a spectacular city. You couldn’t help but feel you were on a film set. The weather was warm and the sea was transparent and green all at the same time. I has heard that if you visit Dubrovnik you must walk around the city walls so bright and early Tom and I started bought our tickets from the amiable grumbling old man in the kiosk and started our ascent to the heights of the ancient city walls.  We passed heavy stone and wooden doors as the higgledy piggledy climb took us beyond the terracotta roof tiles of the surrounding buildings. Right away we knew we had made the right decision to take the climb. Up there you can see the whole walled city and the islands off the coast. It took us about an hour to walk around but I wold have gldly tarried even longer! The city was one of the most shelled places during the war and you can see they are still rebuilding it – piece by piece.  They really have done a wonderful job. The terracotta roofs can be distinguished by  their shade. The old tiles are a muddy gold whilst the new  are ripe orange. Just the view of the changing colours the amount of roofs that were destroyed. The most fascinating element of the city walls and even the buildings for that matter, are the sheer number of bullet holes. Whether left by design or accident, these reminders of the struggles fought here are a stark contrast to the town we experienced. It struck me that I always think of fortified city walls as a medieval construct manned by knights and archers. However, standing there by the slit windows, looking at the scars left by AK-47s in my lifetime, the past seemed very close indeed.

View from the walls

More wall views…

Main street Dubrovnik

Bay just outside the walls

The city was decorated for Christmas and around the town matching wreaths and candles framed every door and alleyway. There were no gaudy Santas, no multi-coloured lights are pictures of elves. Everywhere has green garlands decorated with oranges, candles and clementines. The town seemed understated and beautiful, welcoming Christmas with atmosphere rather than cheap tat. I loved it.

Main Square Decorations

Clear water in the bay

I took far too many pictures from the city walls but I simply couldn’t stop myself. The sea was so blue it looked unreal and you could see all the rock on the sea floor because it was so clear. I heard some of the girls from  the gym and salon went to the part of the walls where you could jump off into the sea. I declined that option… after all, however warm the air wass… it was still December!

After leaving Dubrovnik we headed to split. Split itself is another two faced city. The newer buildings are uniform and soviet in design although they are strangely wonderful. I discovered when people could finally own their own homes, they personalised them. The result is a concrete soviet jungle covered with flowers and colour and wall murals and such like. The Croatian government gives subsidies to people who work their own land to produce food as it is a very rocky landscape. Therefore, all the flats have patches of land next to them where they grow their own vegetables to sell at markets.  From split I travelled to Omis, a seaside town just down the coast where one of the rivers meets to sea. The trip took us high into the mountains which guard Croatia’s coastline. The rural houses were matched with 1990’s propaganda etched onto the cliffs. The juxtaposition of the natural with the political forced knots into my stomach. This beautiful country was on its way back from dark times I could only imagine. Once in Omis I went on a river boat trip on the milky white water through what I can only describe as a Narnian gorge lined with tiny multi-coloured  fishing huts and on into a dense forest for a light lunch of local foods at a restaurant surrounded by a strange mix of pine and palm trees.

Sailing through the Narnian Valley

Fishing huts

Our boat…

With faces stung by wind and drizzle we alighted into a family run restaurant where a local duo played us regional music with lunch as we ate local breads, cheeses and smoked meats with olives. They also brought us local red and white wine to drink. This was all excellent except it was still 10.30 AM! I needed a strong double espresso to get me through the rest of the day. Back in Split I wandered around the ancient town and its skeletal churches still standing after 500 years of war and peace. Right on the front of the marina I found the  Christmas markets and ended up meeting some people from the crew. We settled in at a little hut in the Christmas market and drank mulled wine and ate prosciutto.

Our local entertainment

Not bad for 10.30 AM…

Christmas markets in Split

Mulled wine, sardines and prosciutto with friends

 If you ever get the chance to spend time in Croatia, jump at the chance. The people are welcoming and wonderful, the food is divine and the scenery?… well let’s just say its exquisite.