Tag Archives: Grand Anse

Grenada: Grand Anse

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Grenada is a blur of hazy greens, deep dark blue, starling whites and accessorized with the bright stained-glass of towns shimmering out of its hillsides. Tom and myself decided to explore Grand Anse beach, a 2 mile long white sandy beach just a little distance around the coast from the port. ( http://www.grenadaguide.com/Beaches.htm ) We managed to catch a water taxi just as the heavens opened with a hot quick deluge. Through the sporadic rainfall we caught sight of houses and villages buried in the green foothills of the capital. Bright pink, sharp yellow and bold blue houses peeked out of the morning haze, winking their welcome to us as we rounded the cape into the sheltered bay of Grand Anse.

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Our water taxi

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The trip to Grand Anse

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Houses peeking out from the green shore

As we docked, seemingly on cue, the cloud cleared and the sun burned away the remaining mist. The crescent of white glittering sand stretched far into the distance where boulders and sandbanks framed a river trickling into the ocean. The closest sections of beach were covered in sun loungers their proprietors already eying up the tourists ready to provide comfort and drinks… at a cost. Further up the beach, private hotels backed onto the ocean and their patches of sand were clear of loungers or umbrellas. We headed for the peace and shade of a tree about a half mile up the beach and claimed it with the universal symbol of a dropped bag and laid out towel! Leaving Tom to get settled I headed off for a run along the beach… not a great idea whilst wearing a strapless bikini top! Fortunately, modesty intact, I made it to the far end of the bay. The great thing about Grenada, I found, were the smiles. Granted they may have been the result of people quietly laughing at me trying to hold my top on whilst running haphazardly in the sand, but lets face it, who wouldn’t laugh at a pasty white girl lolloping down a beach semi clothed at 9 am! At one point a local dive instructor fell into pace beside me for about ½ a mile. I truly can’t remember what we talked about, but in breathless chatter I’m sure we became fast friends. Hot and exhausted I arrived back at our little tree, slapped on some factor 30 and crashed out with the kindle for a couple of hours.

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Tom and I

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Our little tree…

The water at Grand Anse wasn’t the turquoise placid sea we experienced in Barbados, it was a far darker affair. Deep blue water pushed forcefully at the sand and streaks of blackish green seaweed churned in the surf. The ocean seemed more foreboding in contrast to the desert island surroundings of the land. At the edge of the water the sand became harsher, thicker and more solid than the soft white under our tree. Standing with my feet in the surf, one wave sucked my footing away and left my feet in a cavern of sand. I liked that feeling. I liked that sense of power it held. The character of the sea that had been our home for so long, reminding us that she wasn’t always so pleasant. However, unperturbed we swam a little…. when, after a good 15 minutes swimming towards the water taxi rank, I found myself a good 200 meters further away from it, I decided enough was enough and exhausted, trundled back to my towel with a rumbling belly. Time to explore some local restaurants….

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The dark sea contrasting the rest of the Caribbean

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Powerful froth

Well, I can’t say we found a restaurant. But what we did find was a concrete back yard of a family home/café where Labrador puppies roamed free and a young man offered us the delights of controlled substances (which we naturally declined) whilst we ate his mothers chicken stew. It was FABULOUS. Yes, I found a chickens foot in my dish and a couple of feathers but the conversation was diverse, the food was tasty and home cooked and there were puppies to play with. A good hour later we ventured back into the midday sun and whiled away the hours reading and making friends with the various packs of people that polka dotted the beach closest to us.

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Best lunch pals ever!!!

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At one point a local man approached selling his wares. As the other tourists waved him off or, annoyingly, completely ignored him, I asked him what he was selling. He said that he could take a piece of drift wood from he beach and carve it into anything I liked and then make it into a necklace. I told him I love the infinity symbol as it reflects many of my spiritual beliefs, and so he picked up some wood and began to carve. 20 minutes later I had a bespoke necklace with an infinity sign craved from drift wood. He carved his name my name and the date onto the back whilst I asked him how long he’s been doing this. “Since I was 7” he said, “I’m now 81. I spend each day doing this and I always carve something new. I love my life”. I paid him $10 and felt lucky to have met him.

His name was Ariel and a hope he’s still there today, strolling down Grand Anse carving treasures for those lucky enough to cross his path.

As the day wore on we ventured to the local craft market to find some trinkets to take home. I wanted some vanilla extract for my baking back home and a doll for my niece. The market was colourful, stacked high with exquisite jewellery and vibrant art. I had no trouble finding huge amounts of things I wanted to take home! However, I was restrained and just got a traditional doll for my niece. What a sensible girl I was!… I was sure that sort of behaviour wouldn’t last long! Tired and sun-kissed we caught the taxi home to the ship. I don;t remember the evening. I was tired out! Another magical day…. next stop… THE AMAZON!!!

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Grand Anse Craft market

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Art stall in the market

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GRENADA!!!